WHERE THE BUFFALO (BISON) ROAM, AND OTHER CREATURES

Bison Herd Custer State Park

Surprisingly our Moroccan Reunion Tour had long segments of bus-riding with intermittent stops at tourism centers, designated overlooks or pull-over spots. This was OK with me, as getting on and off the bus with my short legs and short breath was the hardest effort of the day on me.

Bison - Custer State Park

Thus were the the tours through Wind Cave National Park, Custer State Park, Spearfish Canyon and the Badlands. For me these were good touring days and I still have some good but not excellent photos, most of which were taken while the bus was moving, or through bus windows. This post will be  Wind Cave National Park and Custer State Park. Spearfish Canyon and the Badlands may be one or two other posts. I also have Deadwood and Wall SD, too, as well as two nights dining.


I like to provide historical backgrounds; Four different histories would be a lot to digest in one post.

Bison - Custer State Park

The tour through Wind Cave National Park and Custer State Park was a bus ride with few stops. It was designed to see the natural wild life of South Dakota. The two drives connect with each other.
Wind Cave National Park does have a cave; in fact it is the 4th largest in the world with 135 miles of passageways. However, this tour was not the cavern, but a warm afternoon drive to hopefully see the abundant wildlife in both parks, like bison, elk, deer, antelope, ferrets, prairie dogs and coyotes. During this drive the sightings of wildlife were sparse; it was a very warm afternoon.

Burro - Custer State Park
SOOC (Straight Out Of Camera)

There are campgrounds, a visitor's center, bike trails, and Ranger discovery programs of 2-hour prairie hikes. A Junior ranger program is provided for ages 6-12, as well as evening programs at Elk Mountain campground on subjects like history, geology, wildlife and the prairie ecosystem during the summer.
The CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps), one of Pres. Franklin Roosevelt's more successful "alphabet" efforts to provide work during the Great Depression, contributed to the creation of these parks. The laborers planted trees, paved roads, constructed parks,etc.
Since the roads we took for Wind Cave National Park and Custer State Park connected to each other I will not be able to tell you exactly where the bison/buffalo were taken. We sighted a variety of deer, but not near enough to get pictures through a bus window.

So about all I have are a few bison and the burros; the burros are  not native to the park but added entertainment as they love to snitch treats, especially carrots from tourists and occasionally nip you, if you are not watching. We were not otherwise allowed off the bus, as the wildlife, especially bison are dangerous and temperamental.

All I had heard was prairie rattlesnakes, and so I stayed within the confines of the rules laid down for our safety.

Bison is the correct word for the species that roam America's prairies. Because they resembled African and Asian buffalo, early explorers  (and myself) called them buffalo and the misnomer became interchangeable with bison. Bison have a large shoulder hump.

Burro Begging For Treats From Tour Member
Custer State Park

In Custer State Park, the 2nd largest state park in the U.S., there are 1300 free-roaming North American bison. These bison were/are used in many movies.

Once a year there is an annual roundup, a great event that draws many tourists. The bison are tested, vaccinated, branded and some sorted out to sell at the annual auction. There is a video clip of the roundup at the link given for Custer State Park.

Baby Burro -  Custer State Park
I Thought Look Lethargic And Ill

The wildlife in both parks are relatively the same, but we saw more this particular drive in Custer State Park, which also had some impressive lodges providing a variety of accommodations and full service dining. There are campsites, camping cabins and several scenic roadways. I think the one we were using was The Wildlife Loop Road.

The amenities of both Parks are similar: hiking trails, climbing, bicycling, camping, campgrounds. The Custer State Park was nearer the town of Custer, which offers shops and other local color for tourism.

A tour director tries to choose a variety of sites, so the majority of the tour members will be pleased. However, controlling where wildlife will be at any given time of the day, is not easily determined.

Mama Burro Trying To Entice Baby With Carrot
To No Avail - Custer State Park

Other Burros Not Interested In Treats
Custer State Park

PHOTOS: Photography all by NitWIT

Please watch video at link for Custer State Park as well as read history. I wish we had not been so tired, because we were in still in Rapid City the day of the Buffalo Roundup.

The amenities of both Parks are similar: hiking trails, climbing, bicycling, camping, campgrounds. The Custer State Park was nearer the town of Custer, which offers shops and other local color for tourism.

A tour director tries to choose a variety of sites, so the majority of the tour members will be pleased. However, controlling where wildlife will be at any given time of the day, is not easily determined.

MAMMOTH SITE - A GLIMPSE BACK 26,000 YEARS AGO

Columbian Mammoth

Have you ever stood by a giraffe, elephant  or even a multi-story building and realize how small human beings are in reality. Suddenly our egos exit. We realize our intellect is all that keeps  us at the top of the heap of living creatures that now exist, and/or once existed on our planet.

This realization came to me as I stood before several Ice Age animals at the Mammoth Site near Hot Springs, South Dakota. I would loved to have had more time at this location. But as I have said before, group tours are scheduled and you move when told as there usually is another group tour arriving behind you. If you have not already read the link provided, it is well worth your time.

Husband & I In Front of Same Mammoth In Picture
Above [Picture Taken For Feature in Area
 Newspaper Called"Where In The World
Is the Baxter Bulletin?"

Paleontology is simply define as the study of prehistoric life, but it has many subtypes, not just bones and fossils. Superficially, one would think this site is just that, until you see and read about its discovery and history.

Giant Short-Faced Bear Skeleton



The Giant Short-Faced Bear Plaque

The Mammoth Site is the world's largest research facility which claims to have discovered about 58 Columbian and woolly mammoths, as well as other prehistoric animals like bears and hippopotamus.There are other mammoth sites in U.S. at Waco, Texas and other sites in Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico, Nevada, Texas, South Carolina, Utah  and Virginia,Wisconsin and Washington, as well as several in Kenosha County, Illinois. I may have missed several other sites.
Some of these sites are more the prehistoric human, predecessors of an earlier generation of Native American than those occupying the land when America was settled.
The Mammoth site in South Dakota through a series of climate changes became what is known as a karst sinkhole, which was a steep hole, a watering hole or pond for thirsty animals. The huge mammoths would enter the water to quench their thirst, eat or bathe. But their bulk and weight prevented them from getting a foothold to climb out the steep banks. The animal would become exhausted from their many attempts and falling, until fatigue conquered and the animal drown.


The sinkhole became a mass grave for mammoths and other prehistoric beasts. and finally filling the karst with a wealth of prehistoric bones fauna and other natural wealth, well entombed and protected by silt and mud.
<>                                          

Almost Complete Skeleton Imbedded Mammoth Site In Karst Sink Hole

Upon discovery the edge of the karst sinkhole was determined and housing was built over it to prevent erosion. It is a remarkable sight to see. The discovery was by chance when heavy equipment was excavating for a housing development, but instead found South Dakota's greatest fossil treasure.

Partially Exposed Skeleton in Mammoth Site Karst Sink Hole

The Mammoth Site is not a part of the National Park System but a non-profit 501(c)(3) organization. Besides the indoor fossil bone bed, there is a working paleontology laboratory, Ice Age exhibit, ongoing research and education, and a Junior Paleontologist Program (June 1- August 15). There are teaching materials, "Mammoth in a Trunk" teaching kits with teacher support materials, video teleconferencing, and Boy and Girl Scout Merit Badge classes.

Embedded Tusk - Mammoth Site Karst Sink Hole

The Site has co-hosted international conferences and publishes scientific Quarternary research materials. "Quarternary" refers to the Ice Age prehistoric natural history; in this case, emphasis is on the late Pleistocene age.

Mammoth Site has received many accolades, including 2009 Distinctive Destination by National Trust of Historic Preservation, AAA "Gem Attraction" and the Great American Road Trip-Black Hills-South Dakota.

Overview Of About 50% of the Mammoth Site Work Area

There was much more than I could absorb in the hour and 15 minutes allotted our tour. We followed a bus tour and another followed us. So we had to keep moving...to a nearby restaurant named "Woolly's" in Hot Springs, SD, which was a sandwich bar with salads, dessert and non-alcoholic drinks. [could not find an Internet link that exactly matched the restaurant.]



Enjoy the photos. Click and enlarge to see details you may not see in blog size.
This tour and Crazy Horse Museum I wished for much more time, but am blessed I was granted health and relative stability to make the trip and essentially complete the tour as well as the road trip to and from Rapid City South Dakota.


Below are two YouTube videos of Mammoth site in Hot Springs, South Dakota and Waco, TX.

YouTube - Mammoth Site SD

You Tube - Waco TX

Photos (except YouTube) made by NitWit1

[I encountered some problems with formatting; don't know if it is me or Blogger. Since I have had two different composing Windows for whatever reason since In returned home, I tend to think it is Blogger. It is always interesting to see what Blogger will throw at me next.]

MOUNT RUSHMORE: REPRISE



Classic photo of Mount Rushmore

Photo From Mount Rushmore Brochure
Showing Sculpting In Process - (Appears
To Be Thomas Jefferson)

I know I released a photo of Mount Rushmore Sept. 23, but this is a more detailed post, the highlight of our bus tour. You can find hundreds of hits on the Internet. Its inception was by South Dakota's state historian Doane Robinson, who, in 1923, suggested giant statues be carved in the Black Hills to draw tourists.

Husband at Mt. Rushmore

As with all big ideas there were scoffers to downright hostility to a new, different ideology. There are outcroppings of tall, thin peaks, called the Needles,  which resist erosion in the Black Hills. Robinson's imagination was the Needles were a parade of Indian leaders and American explorers, shaping the American Frontier. [I saw some of the Needles, but failed to get a photo. Some Needles' shapes reminded me of stone thin evergreen trees.] Here is a link to a YouTube film clip of scaling and climbing the Needles

You would not find me trying to scale the Needles; I cannot scale a Porta-Pot without falling--maybe the key for me is some equipment!!!

An unconventional sculptor, Gutzon Borglum, sculpting in the shadow of  brother, Solon, was making  a name for himself  at Stone Mountain Memorial in Georgia.  He was patriotic, beginning to create a reputation by sculpting 'the celebration of things American' which meant BIG. 

NitWit1 at Mt. Rushmore; the Rollator
Was Great To Help Me In Walking,
Carrying Camera, Oxygen, Emergency
 Medicines And Warm Apparel.
This Was the Highest Altitude Of
The Trip. I Had Lots of SOB, But
Recovered Quickly With Several
Whiffs of Pure Oxygen.
[Photo by Husband]

After determining the granite of the Needles did not meet Borglum's criteria for large sculptures, he began scouting other locations for another solid durable granite mountain. He chose Mount Rushmore named in 1885 for New York attorney Charles E. Rushmore. His criteria included the exposed granite face southeast to receive sunlight most of the day.

Borglum envisioned four Presidents in commemoration of the foundation, preservation and continental expansion of his beloved country. 

He chose George Washington [head dedicated in 1930] as liberator and First President to anchor the left position. Washington deeply believed in liberty and the Republican model of government entrusted to the American people.  (paraphrased from his First Inaugural Address].

Gutzon Borglum
[One Place I Should Have
Used Polarizer To Reduce
Reflections Shown On Plaque]

Beside Washington is Thomas Jefferson [head dedicated in 1936], chosen for his influence and writing of the Declaration of Independence, his two terms as President and mastermind of the Louisiana Purchase.


Mount Rushmore
and Avenue of  Flags


Sandwiched between Jefferson and Lincoln is Theodore Roosevelt with mustache-somewhat thicker than I remember [head dedicated in 1939] who promoted progressive causes like conservation and economic reform,  and expanded the country's influence by promoting the construction of the Panama canal.

T. Roosevelt had a sickly childhood, suffering severe asthma. As was his mantra, he took the"bull by the horns" and converted his image to an outdoorsman, who once owned cattle ranches in the Dakotas.

Mount Rushmore - Avenue of Flags
Long View

Anchoring the far right position is Abraham Lincoln with beard, albeit shorter than I remember [head dedicated in 1937], whose leadership restored the Union and ended slavery.

Dedication apparently did not mean the sculpture was completed. It appears it meant a commission was let to begin the sculpting.

The memorial was completed in 1939.  However the memorial site was dedicated by Calvin Coolidge in 1927. Actual carving took only 6 years, but it took 14 years to completion as funding had to be found. Borglum lobbied from state to federal officials in a manner he called a "one man war" to fund his work as a national memorial. Finally $836,000 of federal money brought the final cost to nearly one million, a tidy sum in 1930s, but not today.



Another Classic View of Mount Rushmore

Borglum died  in 1941 before completion of the memorial, but son, Lincoln Borglum supervised completion. Although Gutzon Borglum had dreams of an entablature engraved with a brief history of the country and a Hall of Records to preserve national documents and artifacts, work stopped in  October 1941; the time was nearing for his beloved America to defend the very principles his memorial exemplified and preserved in the granite of South Dakota.

Final dedication was held in 1951. I do not remember this but I was a teenager in that time period, probably not pursuing history.

We missed the evening lighting ceremony as it is conducted in an amphitheater nearer the monument. There was no way I could navigate the steps of the theater. I understand it is inspiring. But I am thankful for having seen one American National Memorial I admired. There is a Presidential walking trail to an area near the base of the monument, a Sculptor's Studio, visitor's center, visitor's services, Lincoln  Borglum Museum, gift shop. book shop, audio tour building, and restaurant. We took in the visitor's center.

Mount Rushmore and Avenue of Flags
Note: Arkanas Flag - Up-Front on Left!

Statistics of George Washington's head:
Tall as a 6-story building.
Nose length - 20 feet (I guess we can call him Pres. Long-Nose, Indians might use such nomenclature.)
Mouth - 18 feet, again Mr. Big Mouth.
Forehead to Chin - 60 feet.

Question 1: Have you figured out what's missing on all 4 Presidents? What else may be missing from one President? [it is hard to tell from photos]

The Avenue of Flags was added in 1976 for the U. S. Bicentennial celebration. Was I every surprised to see Arkansas's flag, front and center on the first of the two multi-sided column rows of flags. Above link is incorrect in that at least Arkansas was on the 'Washington' side. However I believe the placement, which is alphabetical, started with the columns near the monument--not sure, but seems the only way Arkansas flag would have the position it had from position I took the photos.
All my photos plainly show the Arkansas Flag.

These Two Huge Rock Formations Reminded Me Of Two
Comical Old Men Watching over Mount Rushmore! This
photo was taken looking across street of entrance
to Mount Rushmore.

QUESTION 2: There 56 flags for each state, district, commonwealth and territory. If 51 account for 50 states and district of Columbia, what are the others? 

Question 3: If a similar sculpture were created today, what Presidents do you think might be chosen today?

Mount Rushmore and Avenue of Flags
Arkansas Flag Prevalent in this Photo
(my favorite of this shot)

Construction of Mount Rushmore
Photo of Government Provided Brochure
You May Be Able to Enlarge and Read
The Print on the Right of Photo

PHOTOS: by Nitwit1, unless otherwise noted. 

Some phrases and information attributed to Mount Rushmore National Memorial South Dakota (brochure), provided by National Park Service, U.S. Department of Interior, GPO 2010-357-940/80401 Reprint 2010, printed on recycled paper. I found no copyright; our taxpayers footed the bill, so I don't think I am in violation of any law, especially with this attribution.

Answers to questions 1 & 2


1. Missing on Presidents: (a) EARS; (b) Theodore Roosevelt wore Pince-Nez eyeglasses in nearly all photos I've seen. However, Sculptor Gurzon Borglum knew him personally.


2. Flags (not 50 states or District of Columbia): Common Wealth of Puerto Rico, Territory of Virgin Islands, Territory of Guam, Territory of American Samoa, Commonwealth of Mariana Islands.


3. Opinion - mine only:

George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Abraham Lincoln, Theodore Roosevelt [for reasons already stated] would probably make the list.


Add Franklin Roosevelt - held the union together through Great Depression, WWII


Ronald Reagan - led the union through stagnation of economy, ended the Cold War


Possibly John F. Kennedy - equalization of races continued by LBJ after JFK's asassination,  but certain decisions began to stir Vietnam conflict. My brother was a Navy radioman privy to top clearance; after discharge he declared JFK was responsible for starting war in Vietnam. His response to certain foreign affairs initiated certain events leading to conflicts.

I considered Dwight Eisenhower as the Interstate Highway System  began under his watch and provided many jobs, but his WWII service seemed to overshadow his presidency which was considered mediocre by some historians.

History is not complete on Bill Clinton or Barrack Obama for me to make a decision; I lingered on Lyndon Johnson as he created Medicare/Medicaid, but he escalated the Vietnam War, IN MY OPINION.

However, sculpting a  memorial of even 4 presidents, much less adding 2 or more would never happen in our current political environment and economic instability. I can hear the yowls if Congress was asked for such funds with a 14+ trillion dollar debt to service and pay, looking them in the face. 

Another link with interesting information is here.

I reallly recommend a visit here and plan to spend a day to take advantage of the amenities offered. A large number of hotel/motels are located near the memorial. It is a national park so senior citizen passes are recognized.